A large percentage of anglers out there today can probably say that their first fishing experience was from the shore or dock. I still have a photo of myself at four years old, sitting on the bank with a three foot Zebco in hand and wearing my cowboy hat and boots.
Ah, those were the days.
Fishing from the shore is pretty much the same as fishing from a boat; you just have to think a little backwards. That is, in most cases, you have to cast out into the lake and retrieve towards the shore, versus the other way around. This guide will show different aspects of fishing from the bank, along with techniques that I have found to produce quality, shoreline fishing trips.
The first thing to remember is that fish usually hold tight along the bank and trudging down to the water’s edge, with gear and stuff jangling and making large amounts of racket is the first no-no. I’m not saying you have to belly crawl, but actually sneaking up on the bank is the best approach. A light step and slow quiet movements are optimal at best.
Try to set up shop at least twenty feet from the shore. Generally, in public parks and FWA’s, there are picnic tables nearby and are usually the optimal distance from the bank.
As far as tackle is concerned, less is more. Some shoreline anglers believe they have to bring all their gear and poles and if you’re not gonna venture off to other parts of the lake or river per say, I guess that’s alright. However, most anglers know you have to change spots in order increase your chances of catching more fish.
I don’t mean that you should leave the rest of your gear at home, it’s just that your car isn’t gonna be too far away. You can always bring too much, just leave the extra stuff in the trunk.
I usually take along two of each type of lure I may need for the conditions, one pole; two at the most and sometimes a cooler. The cooler is either for Panfish fishing or a place to put a fish in order to keep from spooking the others. When you catch a fish and just throw it back, that fish is stressed and frightened and thus spooks the other possible catches nearby.
When I venture off into the woods or to a secluded spot, it’s usually a decent hike to where I want to go. I have one small, plastic utility case, (actually it’s a used, plastic, wall hanging fixtures case that is sectioned off into four compartments. It’s the perfect size) a pair of pliers for removing hooks, a towel and a collapsible lunch bag to put everything into. I bring a couple of bags of Berkley Gulp plastic worms and one pole; two if I’m feeling frisky. That is usually all I need.
I put a two inch lipped minnow, a couple of small jigs, a small spinner and some extra hooks, swivels and weights in the plastic case. Everything but the pole fits in the lunch bag, the pole breaks down and I’m tearin’ off through the woods with nothing but the terrain to slow me down. If I need or want other lures that won’t fit in the case, I just put them in the bag and I can usually fit a bottle of water in there as well.
The point is, keep your gear to a minimum and you’ll be extra mobile. You don’t need the entire tackle box to fish from the shore, unless you’re pulling an all-nighter in one spot, then the situation may require everything and the kitchen sink.
Try to make your first cast from about ten feet away from the edge of the water. Look for the right conditions, (overhanging trees, sunken timber, or rocky points and cast parallel to the shoreline. Many shoreline anglers walk right up to the water and cast straight out as far as they can, often missing the fish right in front of them, or just a few feet down the shore.
You might catch a fish by casting out to the depths of your particular body of water however, chances are it’s gonna be a while, especially if you use a crank type lure or bait. In order to catch fish that far from shore you have to go deep and keep your presentation there for some time. As I mentioned earlier, most fish, even the big ones, hold tight to the shore.
Another thing I have mentioned in other articles is that bass like to lurk around transitional lines in the water (mud-lines, weed-lines, shadow-lines and sharp drop offs). A good pair of polarized sunglasses will help to locate theses areas in the water, not to mention, see fish and protect your eyes from flying hooks, weights and lures when trying to dislodge a snag.
I like to find a small cove, one I can cast completely across. Aim for the other bank, under some overhanging tree limbs and retrieve straight across the cove using a creature type bait. Go slow and try to keep your bait near the other bank as long as possible. This type of casting and retrieving may take some practice and chances are, you may get hung up a few times, but the rewards are worth it.
And if you do get hung up, you can usually walk along the shore to the other side and free yourself. So practice this technique as much as possible, it’s definitely worth the hassle of learning it.
Always be courteous to other anglers and the environment when fishing. Have good judgment when it comes to noise levels and never leave your trash behind. Litter and bad conduct can bring unwanted restrictions to your favorite fishing spot. And if it’s not your favorite, it might be someone else’s.
Remember to put on sun-block and bug spray, bring plenty of food and water if you plan on being out a long time and most importantly, tell someone where you are going or bring a buddy along. And as always; good fishin’ to ya.
Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester.
